This a post made up as a corner post to show the simple assembly detail
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This post that is made up for a 90 degree corner application shows all the necessary parts for the entire railing system with the exception of a 45 degree or other angle. Angles other than 90 degrees require either two posts at the corner or a "hinge" for the top and bottom rail which we will add to this set of pages in a few days.
Stairs are another matter, but use the same parts. The top and bottom rails are cut at the slope of the stairs and attached to pickets that have been cut to the same slope. There are some code considerations here and step design ideas for you.
1. Generally we furnish and use ourselves taller posts for the stairs at the top and bottom because the point of attachment for the top rail will vary somewhat depending on your placement of the posts. Code requires the top surface of the top rail be 34 to 38 inches vertically above the "Toe" of each step. Do a simple elevation (side) layout of the steps and you can see what we mean as you shift the posts around a little. The bottom post can go on the last step or on the "Pad" , but if on either you have to shift it out away from the "Toe" above it as much as possible to allow the strike point of the top rail to hit the post correctly. If step slope length is more than approx. 6 ft. you will need an intermediate post that is shorter and attached to the top rail with a bracket allowing your hand to slide over the post below since the top rail has to be continuous.
2. Another issue is the sides of the steps. Code says a 6" sphere can't roll across the steps and out over the side. This makes placing the bottom continuous rail tough since you have pre-sized pickets. There are several ways to solve this:
...... A. Use the next longer pickets for the stairs (for 42" system) and cut to length needed.
...... B. Spend a lot of time fussing with the system to make it fit and still use the pickets for the 36" system.
...... C. Add a piece of fascia trim down the sides of the steps sealing off the triangular opening. If you do this it solves the 6" sphere problem and you only have to then make sure your bottom gap is less than 4" as is the regular deck system which you can do easily and still use the shorter more standard pickets.